Eric Groza(California, Hawaii), Ostankino. / Source: Asya Cho
A wooden ladder is placed into a hole cut in the form of a cross. Behind the ladder is a half-mile line of people waiting their turn. They’ll wait for an hour or two, or even more, and they won’t leave until they have immersed themselves three times in the icy water.
On the night of Jan. 18/19, Orthodox Christians celebrate Epiphany, one of the church's most important feasts. People believe that on this night water becomes holy and bathing in it washes away all sins.
The TV tower in front of the Ostankino Pond in north Moscow pierces the sky and changes color in the night. Two people rush past the line towards the exit. "They'll think we couldn't handle it, that we're defectors!" hissed a girl. The air temperature is -5 Celsius, and one’s feet quickly numbs.
There is a less painful way to withstand the test of the cold - many drink hard alcohol, although this is not recommended.
More than 102,000 people participated in the Epiphany swim in Moscow, according to the Moscow office of the Emergency Situations Ministry. The number of law-enforcement officers guaranteeing public safety at the Epiphany swim numbered about 2,400.
California guy
"But are these people really that religious?" asks a perplexed Eric Groza, who avoided the evening fuss and instead came here in the morning, having heard there is a small crowd of Russians wanting to take a dip. About 25 people wait their turn at the Ostankino Pond.
Eric Groza. / Source: Asya Cho
Eric was born in warm California and grew up in tropical Hawaii. He came to Russia four years ago, and now he is creative director at the TBWA\Moscow advertising agency.
"I know it happens every year, and every year I should do it but I can’t, " said Groza. ``This year, however, I finally just said to myself, 'I have to do it because it’s an interesting opportunity.' I like crazy wild things and this is one of them. For me it’s like skydiving; it’s not a religious matter."
Eric Groza. / Source: Asya Cho
As we speak a large man, who had just jumped in the water, suddenly darts out of the ice hole with a five-year old child crying in his arms.
"I can't stand it anymore, Dad!!!" screams the child, who now has everyone's attention.
"But how are you going to serve in the army?" scolds the stern father. They go inside a warm tent where tea is offered.
After Eric takes his first plunge in the icy waters he admits, "I've lived here four years and I didn’t understand how Russians do it. Now, I understand it’s a lot easier than you might think.'"
Remember Buddha
"I thought I could survive because other people had done it and they didn’t die, so I felt relieved," said Kal Kalidou, who is from Senegal in western Africa where there is no winter.
Kal Kalidou, Troparevsky Forest, Moscow. / Source: Asya Cho
Rev Kadigamuwe Anuruddha Thero came to Russia from Sri Lanka, where people often walk barefoot. Both he and Kalidou study philology at the People's Friendship University of Russia. Near the university, in the Troparevsky Forest on Moscow’s periphery, it’s 5 a.m. and there’s no one around except for four lifeguards, a man pulling himself up on a bar and a brave woman in a swimsuit.
"I used to think that only a madman could swim in such cold, but Sadu and I are interested in extreme things and love the Russian bath," said Kalidou. The two men approach the ice hole without slippers because "slippers won't help you walk on snow." Instead, they're only carrying towels.
Rev Kadigamuwe Anuruddha Thero, Troparevsky Forest, Moscow. / Source: Asya Cho
Kalidou's Russian classmates mischievously admit they like to test foreigners with this tradition. The first was a Palestinian who was thrown into the water with the words, "Hey Buddhist, when you dive in, remember Buddha."
Jumping into the water passes in a flash, and when you come out you are more relaxed. Your whole body emits thick vapors, like stones in a hot bath. By the way, it is very simple to become obsessed with this activity. Kalidou said that you feel as if you had a Thai massage. There is a certain euphoria and lightness that makes you want to do it all over again.
"Hey Sri Lanka, come over, have some tea!" the guys shout from the dressing room.
Oddly enough, the most difficult thing in Russia for Sadu is the large number of clothes that people wear. He just shrugs it off and wears light pants even in the frost. His hands are shivering as he takes the herbal tea. But he is happy and says, "It would be good to do it again."